On election night at the British Virgin Island’s tiny Jost Van Dyke, a large crowd assembled at Foxy’s Tamarind Bar. Huddled anxiously around a big screen hauled from his house for the momentous event, the raucous group was loaded with opinion and sharing freely. Everyone there, for that special night, was a polished, political analyst. Obama shirts were the unofficial dress code; hope, the sanctioned mood. When the polls finally closed at 1:00 a.m., Eastern Caribbean Time, the place went berserk . Drinks flowed and spilled as a high-fiving, back-slapping, hugging, kissing, dancing euphoria hit. Tears ran down every face. So much excitement on an island with little more than tourism to tie it to America.

Now nearby in the U.S. Virgin Islands, a similar scene unfolded. The Virgin Islands are a US protectorate; it’s citizens can receive certain national benefits but can not take part in an election. Bars, packed with televisions and wanna-be voters, spilled their throngs into streets that took on the energy of a full-on carnival. The celebrating never stopped and the next day, November 5th was sanctioned as “Obama Day.” Small festivities erupted, long held emotions poured out and the students of St. John’s Julius Sprauve School took the opportunity to strut their patriotic stuff. Their student body, kindergartners to 8th grade, left their ball field and headed to town for an impromptu Barack Obama parade. Dressed in school uniforms they marched through Cruz Bay with hand-made signs, banners, hats and portraits, cheering and chanting the name of their next president. Smiling and tearful onlookers cheered back.

A bit farther from the United States on the Dutch/French Island of St. Marten, signs of jubilation were still present two weeks after the vote. May’s Super Center ran a newspaper ad proclaiming, “Celebrating President Obama, 30% off Store Wide Sale!” alongside a photo of the new first family. Their customers could enjoy new curtains, comforters, large or small appliances along with the chance for change. Locals wore his image on an eclectic array of t-shirt styles and it was impossible to walk a block without overhearing his name even through the complicated ensemble of languages found on that melting pot of an island. When Obama wasn’t a spoken word , it was sung by one or another of the Caribbean’s most noted stars. Cocoa Tea’s election lyrics begin, “Well this is not about class, not for da race nor creed, make no mistake it’s the changes, what all da people dem need. Let me shout out…Barack Obama, Barack Obama…” and on it goes with a hip-whining reggae tune.

But the biggest surprise we just encountered in our two week, 7 island tour came in Antigua, well known for it’s own political history. For close to fifty years the island was run by the Bird family. First by V.C. Bird, known as the Father of the Country (or Daddy Bird,) and later by his son, Lester Bird (aka Baby Bird.) Now, the elder Bird was well loved and respected but adoration for his son carried a two-sided blade. Bruce has jokingly painted signs in his Antigua paintings that read “Lester love Antigua,” but some locals would say, “Lester love Lester.”


V.C. Bird looking pretty spiffy these days.

In the capital of St. Johns, a pretty hefty statue of V.C. Bird was erected that for years sat in all it’s concrete glory until the elements turned it a nasty shade of green. Much money and time was spent power-washing Mr. Bird until some serious paint spruced him up to his present day image. Good thing, as he’s got some modern day competition.


Without consulting his people, Antigua’s Prime Minister changed the name of the island’s highest mountain from Boggy Peak to Mt. Obama. Signs throughout the island proclaim, “Antigua for Obama!” and t-shirts are flying off the presses with the man’s smiling face surrounded by the words, “Antigua Love Obama.” Everywhere we went, all we talked to were upbeat, hopeful, looking for a change. On a local bus the driver and I chatted about the election. A lady seated behind me joined in saying, “See dis?” She held up the book, The Audacity of Hope and said, “I read it whon day. Dis man vary smart. I hope he can change dis world. I hope he is de change we need.”

Yes, mon. We hope so, too.

Jan

Labels: Caribbean islands, sailing