So many people visit St. Marten for just one day that together they could fill a world-class cruise ship … or two, three, sometimes even four or five a day. Dutch Sint Maarten is a popular stop for the behemoth floating hotels and there’s plenty of memory-making, entertaining reasons for it. Ships tie up to the A. C. Wathey Pier, located at the eastern end of Great Bay, open for operation even as it undergoes a major reconstruction. When complete, it will be able to handle the world’s largest Genesis Class mega-ships and passengers will be able to shop, taste and experience an isolated piece of the island the minute they step off the gang walk. For the more curious and adventurous travelers, Sint Maarten offers a plethora of delights and activities beyond that pier, something for everyone … from busy kids to serene seniors.

The capital, Phillipsburg, attracts the majority of cruise guests, a plus for an island fraught with frequent traffic congestion. No driving necessary. Instead, passengers hop on one of the 40-foot canopied tenders that run all day from the pier to two convenient spots in town, delivering and collecting guests along the way.

The town’s long, curved beach underwent an amazing transformation after two deadly hurricanes wracked the island in the late 1990s. Before that, no one paid the beach much mind. It was flanked by rear-facing buildings, their business doors open to Front Street instead. Now, though, the beach is the main event here, with a wide, mile-long and artfully decorated boardwalk tying it to restaurants, shops and the town beyond.

Early each morning, workers appear, raking and cleaning the sand before setting up neat rows of white lounge chairs, covered in bright cushions and shaded by a rainbow of umbrellas. Each of these beach businesses offers a special deal: $10 for a chair and umbrella; two chairs and a shower for $15; two chairs and two cold beers for $10. Jet skis, kayaks and snorkel gear are available to rent and the roped off swimming area has sunning docks and trampoline platforms.


The boardwalk is a hive of activity with its own array of offerings. If simply strolling isn’t your thing, visitors can ride a pedal-powered rickshaw, rent a bike or even traverse the boardwalk on a Segway … after a training session, of course. Sandwich boards line the walkway, displaying menus, prices and special deals of the day. Restaurants and bars compete with one another, so lunch and a few drinks ashore are affordable and recommended. Who can resist the aroma of barbequed West Indian ribs, chicken, wahoo or mahi mahi? Many of these establishments have live music, including steel pan players, reggae singers and jazz musicians, all there to round out the Caribbean sensory delight.

St. Marten boasts the best duty free shopping in the Caribbean, and the majority of it is one block off the boardwalk on Front Street, fondly known as “the golden mile.” Dozens of glitzy jewelry stores offer precious gems and chic watches of gold, silver and sterling. Mixed among them are shops selling the latest high-tech gadgets, campy souvenirs, beach attire, cigars, linens, sunglasses, purses, glassware, T-shirts and alcohol. Did I miss anything?

A not-to-miss-spot on Front Street is the Guavaberry Emporium, where the legendary Island Folk Liqueur of Sint Maarten is made, sold and tasted. St. Marten’s national liqueur is a combination of bittersweet guavaberries, cane sugar and oak-aged rum. Another favorite product found throughout the island is the famous Rum Jumbie Liqueur, an exotic blend of aged Caribbean gold rum, spices and tropical fruits sealed into a calypso-clad drummer-man shaped bottle, sporting a hand-painted tropical shirt and straw hat. The liqueur is great, but the bottle is even better.

Housed in an old dwelling, the Guavaberry Emporium is filled with artifacts, photographs and memorabilia detailing numerous centuries and cultures of life on this 37-square-mile island. Photos of the most recent hurricanes are sobering reminders of nature’s repeating influence here. The entrance to the museum holds a great collection of books, maps, license plates and local crafts for sale.


From the center of town, near the historic, Dutch-influenced courthouse, shoppers can wander to Back Street to find the new arts and crafts market, with more islandy jewelry, souvenirs and clothing. The market ladies enjoy a bit of bartering, but do so at your own risk … they won’t let you get away easy.

The official currency of Sint Maarten is guilders, but most places accept U.S. dollars, especially the casinos in town. You’ll hear a medley of languages spoken here, including Dutch, French, Spanish, Creole, Papiamento and, mostly, English.

Just one hot, exhausting day in St. Marten won’t be enough. It will pass all too quickly and you’ll definitely want more. In fact, some cruise ship guests try stretching the day a few minutes too long and can be seen sprinting through town, hoping to make it back to the ship before it blasts its long horn, casts off its heavy lines and heads back to sea. Some have even had to hire a helicopter. You might want to wear a watch … the Gucci one you purchased on “the golden mile,” of course.

Jan